One of the reasons I love walking through Florence is that you never know what story is hiding on the wall in front of you. Recently, while walking along Via Giovanni da Verrazzano, near Santa Croce, I noticed an old stone inscription built into the wall of an otherwise modest house. At first glance, it is difficult to understand. The inscription is written primarily in medieval Latin, the words are heavily abbreviated, and the stone has suffered centuries of wear. But the story behind it is remarkable. It tells us about a Florentine man named Ugolino, his wife, and a journey they made to Rome more than 700 years ago. The First Jubilee of 1300 In 1300, Pope Boniface VIII proclaimed what became recognized as the first Christian Jubilee, offering a plenary indulgence under prescribed religious conditions to pilgrims who traveled to Rome and visited the designated basilicas. The event drew extraordinary numbers of pilgrims from across Europe. Contemporary and later accounts describe enormous crowds traveling to and from Rome, and the Via Giovanni da Verrazzano inscription is rare physical evidence of how that great movement of pilgrims reached the lives of ordinary Florentines. Among those pilgrims were Ugolino and his wife. And apparently, Ugolino wanted people to remember it. What Does the Plaque Say? The inscription begins formally: "Ad perpetuam memoriam..." Or: “For perpetual memory...” It goes on to announce to future readers that in the year 1300, God had granted a special grace to Christians. The inscription then refers to the Holy Sepulchre, the Saracens and Tartars, and the solemn remission of sins proclaimed by Pope Boniface VIII for those traveling to Rome. The inscription is grand, solemn and religious. And then something wonderful happens. After all that formal medieval Latin, the inscription suddenly ends in the everyday...

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One of the things I love most about Florence is that history is not confined to museums. Sometimes it is right there on the wall of a building, waiting for someone to stop and wonder what it says. While walking near Piazza Santa Croce, I noticed an old stone plaque mounted on a wall. The Italian was archaic and filled with abbreviations, but one word immediately caught my attention: MERETRICI (which means "prostitutes")... Naturally, I wanted to know the rest of the story. What Does the Plaque Say? The plaque records a decree issued in 1714 by a powerful Florentine magistracy known as the Otto di Guardia e Balìa, or the Eight of Guard and Balia. The inscription reads, with the abbreviations expanded: "Gli Spettabili Signori Otto di Guardia e Balìa della Città di Firenze, per decreto de' 22 gennaio 1714, proibiscono a tutte le meretrici descritte al loro uffizio d'abitare nella Via di Pepe, sotto pena della cattura et arbitrio delle Magnificenze Loro, non obbedendo, e altre pene imposte nella legge de' 31 agosto 1688." In modern English, the meaning is approximately: "The Honorable Eight of Guard and Balia of the City of Florence, by decree of January 22, 1714, prohibit all prostitutes registered with their office from residing in Via di Pepe. Those who disobey are subject to arrest, punishment at the discretion of the magistrates, and the additional penalties imposed by the law of August 31, 1688." The street identified on the plaque as Via di Pepe is associated with the area now known as Via del Fico, in the Santa Croce neighborhood. Historical descriptions of the street explain that the narrow lanes in this part of Florence had been frequented and inhabited by prostitutes, and that in 1714 local residents and nearby religious institutions succeeded in obtaining a decree restricting their presence. In...

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One of the things I love most about Florence is that you can walk down the same street a hundred times and still discover something new. Recently, while walking through the historic center, I noticed something unusual: what appeared to be an old passageway that had been completely sealed. Above it was a stone plaque bearing the following inscription: "Antonio Peppini chiuse questi vicoli con facoltà accordatagli dal decreto del Magistrato Civico di Firenze l’anno 1826." In English this means: “Antonio Peppini closed these alleys with authority granted to him by decree of the Civic Magistrate of Florence in the year 1826.” I immediately wanted to know the story. Why had one man been given permission to close entire alleys in the center of Florence? And why, almost 200 years later, was the city still telling us about it? THE FORGOTTEN BATHS OF FLORENCE The answer leads to a largely forgotten chapter of Florentine history. In the area near Borgo Santi Apostoli and Piazza del Limbo once stood the Bagni Peppini, also known as the Bagni delle Antiche Terme (the Baths of the Ancient Thermal Baths). Historical accounts place Antonio Peppini's public bathing establishment in an area associated with the ancient Roman baths of Florentia. In 1826, Peppini received official authorization from Florence's civic authorities to close the small alleys adjacent to his establishment. The plaque was placed there to record that the closure was not simply the act of a private property owner taking over public space: it had been formally authorized by the city.  And there it remains today, a nearly 200-year-old public notice written in stone. FLORENCE BEFORE MODERN PLUMBING It is easy to forget that the Florence we experience today was once a very different city. In the early 19th century, private bathrooms and modern plumbing were not...

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The Nitto ATP Finals in Torino may be the best kept secret in the tennis world. While Americans spend thousands for the chance—never the guarantee—to see top players at tournaments like the US Open or Miami Open, Torino quietly offers front-row access to the top eight players in the world for a fraction of the price. Add Italy’s charm, November’s affordable travel, and a city bursting with tennis energy, and the ATP Finals become the ultimate experience for both tennis lovers and Italian enthusiasts alike.

Just ten minutes outside of Florence lies one of the most extraordinary dining experiences in Tuscany — yet few tourists ever hear about it.  Nestled in the quiet town of Scandicci, La Braceria di Scandicci is not a tourist restaurant. It’s a true Florentine steakhouse designed for Italians — and that makes all the difference. When tourists visit Florence, they rarely venture beyond the city center. They stay near the Duomo, Ponte Vecchio, or Santa Croce — and understandably so. Florence’s core is beautiful and historic, but it’s also saturated with restaurants catering to short-term visitors. Many of these places rely on location and atmosphere more than food quality. Scandicci, on the other hand, is a local’s town. People live and work there. They are discerning diners who grew up surrounded by excellent ingredients and centuries-old culinary standards. Restaurants that thrive in Scandicci can’t rely on marketing or foot traffic — they have to deliver exceptional food. That’s why La Braceria di Scandicci is special. It’s built for Italians who know steak — and that means visitors who make the short taxi ride from Florence are in for a real treat. La Braceria opened in January 2017, the creation of owner Albano Ebeja, a man whose passion for meat and wine has made him a respected figure in Florence’s dining scene. Albano’s approach is rooted in tradition but elevated through technique: he sources the finest meats in the world, ages them to perfection, and pairs them with carefully selected wines. The restaurant’s sleek yet welcoming interior reflects Albano’s philosophy — elegant but never pretentious. You might see a table of locals celebrating a birthday, a family enjoying Sunday lunch, or a couple from Florence who made the quick drive just for the bistecca. Everyone is there for one reason: the...

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For decades, Italy has been celebrated for its food, fashion, art, and history. But in recent years, another cultural force has begun capturing the world’s attention—tennis. What was once a sport where Italy occasionally produced a headline player has now become a domain where Italians dominate the conversation. Today, Italy is arguably the strongest country in tennis, and the reasons are as compelling as they are inspiring. The most visible face of this new era is Jannik Sinner, the red-haired phenomenon from South Tyrol who has risen to the very top of the ATP rankings. His breakthrough victories in Grand Slams, his composure under pressure, and his relentless pursuit of excellence have made him a symbol of Italian resilience and talent on the court. For years, the tennis spotlight had been fixed on Spain, Switzerland, and the United States, but with Sinner’s arrival and his steady climb, Italy has a new hero who embodies the nation’s athletic pride. But what makes Italy’s case even stronger is that it does not rest on a single player. Alongside Sinner is a depth of talent that other nations struggle to match. Matteo Berrettini, despite battling injuries, has proven himself as a world-class competitor, once reaching the Wimbledon final and consistently challenging the very best. Lorenzo Musetti brings flair and elegance to the court, a player with artistry that mirrors the beauty of Florence and Rome. Lorenzo Sonego, with his fighting spirit, and other emerging talents ensure that Italy is not just a one-man show but a genuine tennis powerhouse with a strong bench. Alongside the established names, a new wave of young Italians is making its mark on the tour. Flavio Cobolli, with his fearless baseline play and steady climb in the rankings, is a perfect example of how Italy’s tennis renaissance is...

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During my recent trip to the enchanting city of Palermo, Sicily, I stumbled upon a hidden gem that left an indelible mark on my heart: Ideal Caffè Stagnitta. As an avid lover of all things Italian, I couldn't resist the allure of visiting this famous coffee shop, renowned for its rich history and exceptional coffee. Little did I know, my visit would be like stepping into a time capsule, taking me back to 1922, the year it all began. Ideal Caffè Stagnitta was founded by Giovanni Stagnitta and has since become a household name in Sicily. What truly impressed me was that the coffee shop has remained virtually unchanged since its inception. The original design, including a coffee machine over 70 years old, transports you back to the early days of the caffé, making you feel as if you are reliving history with every sip. I had the privilege of meeting the father and son duo who currently own and operate Ideal Caffè Stagnitta. Their passion for coffee and dedication to preserving their family's legacy was palpable. Their stories and warm hospitality added a personal touch to my experience, making it even more memorable. They shared with me their family's commitment to quality and tradition, ensuring that each cup of coffee served is a work of art. Located in the historic center of Palermo, on Discesa dei Giudici, Ideal Caffè Stagnitta is more than just a coffee shop; it's a living museum. The shop's interior, with its rich, warm style and valuable wooden sculptures, reflects the old-fashioned charm of a bygone era. These sculptures, crafted by the illustrious master cabinetmaker D’Angelo in 1951, depict the ancient art of coffee cultivation, adding to the shop's historic ambiance As I sat down to enjoy my espresso, I couldn't help but feel a...

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My 8-month-old daughter, Camilla, just arrived in Italy to kick off our summer 2024 trip with my wife a week before my arrival with our two older kids.  Unfortunately, Camilla touched down on Italian soil for the first time with a high fever and stomach issues, and upon consulting with our Florida pediatrician, my wife was advised to bring her immediately to an Italian emergency room. When I heard the news, I felt a profound sense of relief.  My trust in the Italian healthcare system, and more particularly the prestigious Meyer Children's Hospital in Florence, with its reputation for thorough, compassionate care and a focus on patient well-being rather than profit, reassured me.  We previously had a positive experience at Meyer when our daughter, Sofia, was an infant, which I wrote a POST about in 2019.  Based upon my past experience and the reputation of the Italian healthcare system, I knew that the Italian doctors would take their time with Camilla and ensure that she receives the best possible treatment without the burden of financial worries. In contrast, if we were still in the United States, my feelings would have been vastly different. I would have felt scared and anxious, doubting the quality of care she would receive. In my experience, American hospital doctors often seem rushed, and their hospital room visits brief and impersonal.  The experience in a U.S. hospital can feel transactional, with a greater emphasis on moving patients through the system quickly rather than ensuring comprehensive care.  I would have also felt angry and frustrated about the financial implications. The exorbitant costs associated with U.S. healthcare, combined with what I perceive as subpar service, would have left me feeling ripped off and resentful. Instead of focusing solely on my daughter's recovery, I would have been preoccupied with...

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When one thinks of Italy, the mind often drifts to images of bustling piazzas, delectable cuisine, and breathtaking art.  However, my recent journey to the quaint town of Scarperia introduced me to a lesser-known but equally fascinating aspect of Italian culture: the art of knife making.  Scarperia, nestled in the Tuscan hills, is renowned for its handcrafted knives, a tradition steeped in centuries of heritage and skill. The town’s reputation for knife making dates back to 1306, when it was founded by the Republic of Florence.  The tradition of knife making in Scarperia has been preserved and passed down through generations, with each knife telling a story of meticulous craftsmanship and passion. In July 2023, I surprised my wife with a romantic weekend getaway to Scarperia, without the kids.  A short train ride from Florence, Scarperia is located in the Mugello area of Tuscany, which is also known for Grand Prix motorcycle racing.  As we arrived, I noticed the large amount of knife stores on the main streets displaying in their windows mainly dinnerware knives, but also cutlery ranging from shaving blades to machetes.  My wife and I were certainly in the market for some nice Italian knives, but there were so many options to choose from! After visiting some stores, we learned that the process of crafting a traditional Italian knife in Scarperia is an intricate dance of skill and patience.  The process begins with the selection of horn, a critical component that dictates the shape and size of the knife.  Once the horn is selected, the cutler moves on to the blade.  The components are then meticulously modeled, forged, and tempered to achieve the desired strength and durability. One of the highlights of our trip was meeting a master cutler named Giacomo Cecchi from the Saladini cutlery.  Signor Cecchi...

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As an American who grew up at the Jersey Shore where the ocean waters are brown and opaque, I learned to appreciate the beauty and purity of crystal clear seas.  Italy is filled with beaches similar to the Jersey Shore, but like most countries, it also has its gems.  Each summer my family and I visit different beaches in Italy, with the goal of visiting some of the most beautiful beaches Italy has to offer.  I recall doing Google searches years ago, only to find various blog articles claiming that the most beautiful Italian beaches are in either Sicily or Sardinia.  Then, after interviewing many Italians over the years, I'd say half believe the most beautiful beaches are in Sicily, while the other half are in Sardinia.  We started visiting both Sicily and Sardinia four years ago, and based upon my research and personal experience, I am comfortable stating with confidence that the best beaches in Italy are indeed in Sicily and Sardinia.  Many of our family Italian beach vlogs can be viewed on our family YouTube channel in the travel section. Last summer (2023) we visited the Sicilian province of Siracusa, which is located in the Southeast corner of Sicily.  We had an amazing experience.  We stayed at a beautiful AIRBNB in a small town outside of the city of Siracusa called Fontane Bianche.  Fontane Bianche is a popular beach town centrally located to many of the top beaches of Siracusa.  The town has a little coffee shop and a supermarket typical to small Italian villages.  There is also a popular pizzeria in town for casual dinners after a long day in the sun. Over all, we visited several beaches in the province of Siracusa which I will share below.  But first, it is important to understand how most...

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